A lot of work and a little luck

[Moongoose72]

Since in our climate seeds do not ripen for independent germination, we had to master the embryo rescue. Here is one of the first striking results. I apologize very much for not telling who the parents are yet.
In the first flowering, the rose released 6 buds at once. Lovely dark glossy foliage. The aroma is very elegant, changing with age from bittersweet to creamy. On 1 photo, the 5th day of the flower's life, on the rest the first day.

[david zlesak]

Your seedling is gorgeous!! I love the glossy dark leaves and full petaled blooms. Is it a miniature? I've gotten seedlings with some similar characteristics out of 'Rise 'N Shine'. Minis can be great for helping produce a nicely branched plant (as well as polyanthas).

[Moongoose72]

It looks more like a floribunda when you consider her parents. The size of the first flower is 7 cm, the next buds are much larger than the first. It is also necessary to take into account that the plant is two and a half months old.

[Don]

>> Since in our climate seeds do not ripen for independent germination, we had to master the embryo rescue.

Where are you?

[jrichardson]

I just love yellow roses and this one has beautiful foliage as well. Kudos

Joan Richardson

[Moongoose72]

I'm from latvia. Our seeds practically do not have time to ripen. This year about 15 seeds have sprouted themselves. At the moment I have 200 seedlings, almost all from Embryo R

[Don]

As in full blown rescue using tissue culture? Do you have a protocol you can share with us, photos maybe?

[Moongoose72]

sorry for google translation.
In fact, it's so simple that I taught several older ladies. Nothing complicated! After stratification (not necessarily by the way) I open the seeds with pliers and a magnifying glass. Not with wire cutters! So the result is very bad. Precisely with pliers! It's very easy with a head magnifier. Soak the seeds for an hour. Just in the water. Then with a fingernail we clean off the outer soft shell until it is light. So you see it better. Using pliers, very slowly and very carefully, gradually press on the sharp edges of the seed. It will crack. Then I hook up and pull out the embryo in the sarcotest with a knife with a curved edge. I soak the embryo in sterile water with a drop of hydrogen peroxide (peroxide is optional) for 20 minutes. Now comes the fun part. I personally came up with a way to easily remove sarcotestu (if you want, you can call the method by my name :-)). I make an incision in the sarcotest along the cotyledon with a razor blade. From the place where the root will be, to the very edge. Along the cotyledon! Not deep. It remains to pick up the sarkotest with a knife, scroll the seed with your fingers, and then remove the cap. It's very easy! So simple that at first I wanted to hide this method from everyone :-) Next ... We put the embryo in a liquid slurry of sterile water and vermiculite. I use plastic bowls with lids. Naturally, they must be sterile. And under the red lantern. The temperature is about 19-24 degrees Celsius. All! After 7-8 days in the ground. For me, this technology is a breakthrough! Some crosses have grown to 95 percent. But more than 50.

[minutifolia]

Mongoose, you are a genius! Thank you for sharing this technique. I will bookmark this entry so that I can follow your protocol when I work with my next batch of seeds.

[Margit Schowalter]

Hi Mongoose
How much magnification does your head magnifier have?
Congratulations on the beautiful seedling!

[Moongoose72]

Here is such a cheap one with Aliexpress

[Moongoose72]

[Moongoose72]

Embryos should practically float in a mixture of vermiculite and water. The embryos should not lie on top of the vermiculite. They should be half swimming, this is important! Otherwise, they will be infected with mold.
Carefully turn the embryo with the future root down. Otherwise, it happens that the root grows in the wrong direction and then it is difficult to plant such an "acrobat" in the ground. Pour cold water into the vermiculite. Once in warm water, embryos sometimes immediately disintegrate into 2 parts. I am using a Chinese 20W LED red spectrum light. It perfectly warms up the "incubator", but you need to monitor the temperature. Later, when the embryos begin to grow and rise slightly, you can drain a little water. If mold suddenly appears, add a couple of drops of hydrogen peroxide to the solution. In principle, I always drop a few drops. It's calmer this way. Lighting should be 24/7. Several times a day I knock on the lids of the boxes in order to bring down the condensation. Leave the boxes on the styrofoam for a more even temperature. Do not plant the embryo in the cotyledon stage, wait a few more days for it to release the first leaf. If the root is very small, there are two options - to grow it in a box or (sometimes I do this) to plant it in the ground, but cover it with a transparent glass for a couple of days.